Every year, for about a week each spring and fall, Geneva turns into world auction capital of the finest jewels and watches as Sotheby’s, Christies and a few other players preview and then conduct sales in the city’s five-star hotels bordering Lake Geneva.
As Christies on-line catalogue to its November 18 sale (called simply ‘’Jewels: The Geneva Sale’’) shows, this fall’s 237 lots are alluring, with several items of diamond jewelry estimated in the million dollar range, but it is no contest as far as who is leading the pack: Sotheby’s with a stunning array (over 430 lots) of rings, earrings, brooches, bracelets, necklaces, tiaras and other items some of which are also historically important, like a Cartier cigarette box and the sapphire and diamond brooch and earrings belonging to a member of the imperial Russian Romanov family.
Downturn Not Affecting High Prices
As New York and other sales around the world this season have shown, the economic downturn doesn’t appear to be making itself felt in sales at this level. David Bennett, Sotheby’s Chairman for Europe and the Middle East and the jewelry specialist who will be auctioneer at the November 17 sale, agrees. ‘’November a year ago, we were in the eye of the storm. Buyers were confused, didn’t know where things were headed, and that was reflected in auction results. But by May of this year things were back on track.’’
Besides the five colored diamonds rocks, weighing between 2.52 and a whopping 74.80 carats, Bennett highlighted several other items of particular rarity in the sale such as a ruby and diamond, late 19th century necklace (high estimate $975,000) that belonged to Mary, Duchess of Roxburghe; a 21 carat diamond ring ($1,170,000) from Harry Winston; and a 19 carat emerald ring ($540,000). Both rings are illustrated here.
Another item Bennett qualified as exceptional is a ‘30s Cartier brooch representing an iris that is entirely encrusted with sapphires and diamonds, with a stem of emeralds. Part of the jewelry collection of London socialite Daisy Fellowes, who died in 1962, it is a comparative bargain with a high estimate of $249,000. Various other items belonging to Fellowes, who was known for her fabulous jewels, include a long, 13-row pearl and coral necklace made by Cartier in the ‘30s (high estimate $80,000).
Jewels From 1935-1950
Some of the sale’s most interesting items are catalogued under the heading ‘’Glamour and Extravagance’’ and feature jewelry in the style of that worn by movie stars like Marlene Dietrich, Bette Davis, and Joan Crawford. Among the best pieces – all of which have a highly contemporary feel to them – is a gold bracelet made by French jeweler Boucheron circa 1947: three gold snake link chains held in place by 13 bold, upright chunks of gold (high estimate $15,600).
Another bracelet in the same vein (from Chaumet, Paris, 1940s) features gold and silver squares and rectangles highlighted with sapphires ($16,600). Equally modern-looking: two gold cases dated mid-thirties to 1940 by Van Cleef and Arpels, one a gold vanity case for compact, lipstick and mirror with a clasp of rubies and diamonds ($24,400), the other a minaudière, or multi-purpose case some use as an evening bag, in gold with emerald and diamond decoration on the lid ($20,500).
Sales results will be posted on the websites of the respective auction houses.
Lovers of fine jewels may also be interested in the article on Place Vendôme jeweler Lorenz Bäumer.
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